Light on the Tiles: The Quiet Art of Moving Safely Alone
The darkening of the day turned the alley into a thick, dark liquid, and in this kind of dusk, every doorway was like a shadowy figure sharing a secret. I zigzagged my tiny suitcase over the paving stones in Lisbon, counted the tiles until I reached the one that should have been the blue door with the brass fish knocker. Before I could utter the slightest word, the woman at the reception stood up. “You came,” she said, almost as if touching was an essential step and the friendship would be created in a few seconds. She pointed to the kettle, the clementines, and the Wi-Fi code hidden under a small porcelain swallow in front of us. I loved the lobby being so lively, with fingerprints on the postcards, the ghost of the citrus-cleaning scent, and the sounds from the kitchen, where someone was quietly having a good laugh while cooking. The lady at the reception took me to my room that night in Lisbon, demonstrated the deadbolt and the safe to me, and gav...